Koupepia

Koupepia are the Cypriot version of stuffed vine leaves, the dish many travellers know as dolmades. Tender vine leaves are wrapped around a filling of rice, minced meat (usually pork, sometimes beef) and chopped herbs, then packed tightly into a pot and simmered slowly. The Cypriot style leans on tomato and a touch of cinnamon in the filling and sauce, which sets it apart from many mainland Greek versions that finish with an egg-and-lemon avgolemono.

Rolling koupepia is patient work, so they are made in big batches for family gatherings and holidays, and any extras freeze well. They show up on most meze tables and are good warm or at room temperature, which makes them easy finger food for a party or a long lunch. A vegetarian version, filled with rice, herbs and sometimes pine nuts and currants instead of meat, is common during fasting periods and is a reliable meat-free choice on a meze spread.

Where to try it

• On meze tables at tavernas across Paphos, Limassol and Nicosia.
• Alongside grilled halloumi and sheftalia on a mixed meze.
• At village tavernas in the Troodos mountains, often homemade.

Order koupepia as part of a meze rather than a main, and ask whether the kitchen makes a meat or a vegetarian version if that matters to you. They are a good lighter counterpoint to the heavier grilled and baked dishes like kleftiko and tava, and they keep well for a picnic after a morning at Omodos village in the wine country.