Nicosia

Nicosia (Lefkosia) is the capital of Cyprus and the only major city on the island that sits inland, on the central Mesaoria plain. Its old town is enclosed by a star-shaped ring of Venetian walls built in the 16th century, and inside them a grid of narrow lanes holds churches, museums, craft workshops and cafes. This guide covers the south side, the part of the city within the Republic of Cyprus.

The main artery is the pedestrian Ledra Street, lined with shops and cafes, which runs through the heart of the old town. Just off it stand restored Ottoman and medieval buildings, including the Faneromeni church and the lanes of the Laiki Geitonia quarter. The walled centre also holds the Cyprus Museum, the island's leading archaeology collection, with finds spanning the Neolithic to the Roman era.

What to do

• Walk Ledra Street and the lanes of the old town inside the Venetian walls.
• See the island's top archaeology at the Cyprus Museum.
• Visit the cathedral of Saint John and the Byzantine museum in the Archbishopric quarter.
• Browse the restored Ottoman caravanserai and craft shops near Faneromeni square.

Nicosia is a working capital rather than a beach town, so it suits a day or two of history, museums and food rather than a full holiday. It is also the only divided capital in Europe, with the buffer zone running through the centre; the south side covered here is fully part of the Republic and easy to explore on foot.

The city sits about an hour inland from Larnaca and Limassol, which makes it an easy day trip from either coast. The painted churches and villages of the Troodos Mountains begin to climb to the southwest, including the hilltop Kykkos Monastery.